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Diet & Nutrition · 2 min read

Can Hedgehogs Eat Crickets? (Yes)

Yes — crickets are one of the better staple insects for a captive hedgehog.

By Priya SharmaHedgehog owner since 2017Updated May 12, 2026

Verdict

Yes

Portion · Frequency

2–3 crickets per session · 1–2 times a week

Two or three brown house crickets on a small white ceramic dish on a wood surface — editorial photograph

2–3 crickets · twice weekly · staple insect

Crickets are one of the closer matches to what a wild hedgehog would naturally eat. They're higher in protein than mealworms, lower in fat than waxworms, and have a more favorable calcium-to-phosphorus ratio than most other commonly-fed feeder insects. Live crickets that have been gut-loaded (fed nutrient-rich food before being offered to your hedgehog) are the gold standard. Freeze-dried and canned are practical alternatives that lose some of the nutritional benefit but are much easier to source and handle.

Why

Insects make up roughly 20% of an ideal captive hedgehog diet. Within that 20%, crickets are one of the best choices because their nutritional profile complements rather than duplicates the rest of the diet. A quality cat kibble already provides protein and fat in good ratio; crickets add the chitin, the trace minerals, and the natural variety that no kibble can replicate.

The practical case for live crickets is enrichment as much as nutrition. A hedgehog hunting a moving cricket gets exercise, mental stimulation, and an outlet for natural behavior that they don't get from kibble in a bowl. The downside of live crickets is the work — they need their own enclosure, food, and care, and they tend to escape.

How to actually serve it

Live: drop 2–3 gut-loaded crickets into a small enclosed area (a tub, a bathtub, an empty cage section) and let your hedgehog hunt them. Don't release crickets free in the main cage — they hide and ambush at 3am. Freeze-dried or canned: drop 2–3 directly into the food dish or hand-feed.

Three rules, no exceptions

  • Buy from a reputable feeder source, not a fishing-bait supplier (different breeding standards)
  • Live crickets should be gut-loaded for 24+ hours before feeding for full nutritional value
  • Don't leave live crickets free in the main cage overnight

What it’s actually good for

Strong protein-to-fat ratio. Better calcium-to-phosphorus than mealworms. Closer to natural diet than mealworms or waxworms. Good enrichment if fed live. Most hedgehogs accept all three forms (live, freeze-dried, canned). Cheaper than dubia roaches.

What it’s not good for

Live crickets are work — they need their own care, they smell, they make noise, they escape. Freeze-dried loses some nutrition but is the most practical for most owners. The chirping in your house at 2am is a known cost.

Signs to watch for

Refused crickets after several positive sessions usually means too many other treats — review the rest of their food schedule. Severely ground-up cricket left in the dish suggests dental issues; check teeth at the next vet visit.

Compare to other insects

FoodSafe?Rule
MealwormsLimitedThree twice a week, max — addictive and obesity-causing if overdone
WaxwormsLimitedOne waxworm, twice a month max

Common questions

Common questions

Live, freeze-dried, or canned — which is best?

Nutritionally, live and gut-loaded is best. Practically, freeze-dried is what most owners actually use because it's clean, doesn't require its own setup, and stores well. Canned is the worst nutritionally but acceptable as a backup.

Where should I buy crickets?

Pet stores or online feeder suppliers (Josh's Frogs, ABDragons, Rainbow Mealworms). Avoid bait shops — those crickets are bred for fishing, not pet feeding, and may have different microbial profiles.

Are crickets better than mealworms?

Nutritionally yes — better calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, lower fat, higher protein. Mealworms are fine in moderation (2–3, twice a week max), but crickets and dubia roaches are stronger staples.

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